The Craftsman Professional suffers from hydrophobia. If there is the least trace of surface rust on the
shafts, the slip clutch will seize. A couple of days in a damp shop will do it. Sears claims a 1/1000 of an
inch clearance. They also claim that no lubrication should be used...hmmmm?
So, how do you free up the pulleys and keep them functionning without stripping the whole thing down
once the lathe has seized? Sears' suggestion involves removing the covers, followed by the spring
assembly, then carefully cleaning the shaft with a very fine sandpaper or steel wool, then wipe
everything down with clean cloths, and re-assemble the whole thing, and off you go. If there is
precipitation that night, you just do it again the next morning. Isn't that simple? Yeah, right!
Making a bandsaw circle jig
- get a piece of 1/2" or so plywood that will sit on the table squarely. I cut mine so that it
protrudes about 2" off the side of the table
- cut a wood runner that will sit in the miter gauge slot of your table, same width and
height.
- lay a thread of glue on the runner and press the plywood down onto it. You want the
plywood to adhere to the runner so that it can be slid across the table.
- I drill 2 small holes in which I insert 2 finishing nails through the plywood and the runner.
Be extra careful not to drill through the band saw table. These are just markers so
anywhere will do.
Getting into woodturning
This past year, I have had a number of people ask me for advice and suggestions for choosing lathes, turning chisels, and other accessories. All of these requests were from people that were considering woodturning but had trouble finding information concerning the initial requirements. I am not an expert or an authority of any kind when it comes to choosing the right equipment but I would like to share the last email I received and the answers I provided. What I can say is that I have been at it for 10 plus years so some of my experiences may be helpful. These answers are not for everyone and will not necessarily suit your own case, but if they get you thinking in the right direction, at least we'll be heading the right way!
"signature tools", why buy them?
I was on my way to help a club member the other day. We were going to meet at Lee Valley. As I was driving, I was thinking of the many excellent tools I’ve bought there through the years. I've also been hampered by a bit of illness lately and I have to give a little more thought to my purchases. With that in mind, I started thinking about the tools I did buy and got to wondering, once again, why I had bought a particular “Signature” tool a few years back.
There are some things you should never attempt to analyze too much and this may be one of them....
"cordless tools and battery packs
I bought a wonderful cordless drill years ago. They were relatively new at the time and this "new" tool whispered something in my ear as I walked by! I couldn't resist and adopted it. It came with the drill, a flashlight, 2 batteries and a charger. Great deal!
Over the years, this drill served me well. The flashlight, not so much! But the drill had 2 torque settings and in low torque, can drive a #8 screw right through a 4 x 4. That's a lot of "oumph"! And then, as things happen, the tool started getting old. Perhaps I should say that the batteries started getting old. The tool still produced amazing torque....